Cush, Midleton

Dan Guerin is a chef devoted to the classical idiom. He’s like a young guy but with an old guy’s’s experienced head on the young man’s ambitious shoulders. The result – in this brand-new restaurant space, Cush, on the Main Street in Midleton – is a thesaurus of classics.

Dill Cured Salmon, Blood Orange, Taramasalata, Verjus. Ballinrostig Agnolotti, Cevenne Onion Soup.

The menu is a straight-ahead 5 x 5 x 5, and you can almost hear the orders being cal…