Rome is chaos. Beautiful, saturated, impossible chaos.
The secret to enjoying the city is to find your way through the chaos. The stories of travellers who spend time here and never get a decent plate of food, and wind up with their bag stolen, are legion and, sadly, true.
But the truth is that we all want, and we all need, this beautiful chaos. What we need to know is how to navigate the city, and how to cherry-pick its magnificent exuberance. You need to de-saturate the city, to see its historical, cultural and culinary fault lines, lines that stretch back through the centuries, and to find and enjoy them.
The following are some simple suggestions to help in getting to the belly of the beast.