For the cohort of cooks who frog-marched British food towards some sort of modernity three decades ago – Simon Hopkinson; Marco Pierre White, Rowley Leigh, Angela Hartnett, Nico Ladenis, Gordon Ramsay, Jeremy Lee, Raymond Blanc – there was only one Irish chef who mattered, and that Irish chef was Paul Flynn.
As these hungry chefs chased stars, Flynn was …
Keep reading with a 7-day free trial
Subscribe to The Irish Stew to keep reading this post and get 7 days of free access to the full post archives.