Cities and countries progress their food culture either because of a dynamic individual – Ferran Adria in Catalonia; Maura Foley in Kenmare; Alice Waters in California; Rene Redzepi in Copenhagen – or because of a hive-minded group – the Sheridan brothers, Enda McEvoy, Jp McMahon and Jess Murphy all working in Galway city, or Myrtle Allen and Declan Ryan in Cork.

Every food culture needs a culinary catalyst.

The culinary catalysts provide direction, encouragement, and focus. They soak up the column inches, and they captain the team. Everyone moves forward, and things happen quickly.

In Derry city, the catalyst has arrived: Phelim and Serena O’Hagan’s Artis Restaurant is the suntoucher for the North West.  In Donegal, Ciaran Sweeney cooks in The Olde Glen, where you’ll have to wait weeks to get a table. We joined Ciarán and Alta shape-shifter Niall Davidson for a culinary adventure in the unique Breac.House. We visited Artis Restaurant for an impressive lunch, and spoke to the irrepressible Michael Kelly, nutrient shepherd and chief spade executive with GIY.